"I'll be interested to see pics of your install."

SB:
I purposely ran the new wires so they were out of sight, and the couple of exposed wires are on the bottom of the new relay (camera shot not possible) and on the main power switch behind the battery. So, I don't think pictures would be very valuable. I guess I should have taken pics during installation before I tie-wrapped, taped, and hid everything. Sorry, but I was having plenty of challenge acquiring/designing the proper wiring diagram and finding the existing wires, planning where to route the new wires, and difficulty getting my body into contortions to do the job anyway. When I was done, it felt sooooooooo good!

I know it is to late but:
in vibration environments soldering stranded wires is a no-no. If you read ABYC it clearly says it. If you solder (and I like it too as an electronics engineer) do the following: after soldering shrink a hot glue lined shrink tube overlapping the insulation at least 10 times the wire diameter over the joint. Then take another lined shrink-tube at least 20 times longer each side than the wire diameter and shrink it over it. The reason is that solder will flow into the insulation and "glue" the wires together. Under vibration the strands break at the point where the solder penetration ended and that's a real pain in the a$$ to find! Officially the wires should be supported on both sides of the joint. Similar, just one sided if you solder wires to a switch.

Just to make you feel better: the recommended waterproof butt joints (with glue lined shrink tube) are junk too. Even with the best crimp tool it can happen that the insulation gets cut (normal with Chinese lack-of-quality parts) and water will intrude. That's why I always use bare metal joints and shrink a lined shrink tube over it once they are installed.

and never solder with a butane flame or Al will get after you.....

I can answer that, it powers everything. It accomplishes exactly the same thing as turning the battery switch on for only the time period that the trim switch is pressed. As soon as the trim switch is released, the battery is disconnected. Pretty clever use of the unused terminals on the switch, IMO.

Nice drawing and install.
I'm surprised by the reversal of the pump. In most installations the pump runs in only one direction while the up/down button operates solenoids on a 2 way valve that controls direction. Interesting.

Surprised me as well.

I was asked for some photos of the work that was done. All I have are the following of the switch mounted on the transom.

Jack T,

I really love the look of your custom transom tilt switch with the polished stainless steel bezel. I’ve never been impressed with the cheap looking Mercruiser transom tilt switch, plus the switch operation always felt rough to me.

Where did you find the stainless bezel? I’ve looked everywhere and can find nothing even close.

Did this switch end up taking a larger cutout than the traditional transom tilt switch would have required?

Very nice job on the inspired use of a relay to let the transom tilt switch work even with the battery switch being off. Where did you end up mounting the relay? And nice job on the electrical diagram.

The switch bezel was made by a custom sheet metal company. They have the right power tools for this kind of work. I polished the stainless steel bezel after it was crafted. Gave the rough dimensions that were slightly oversize, thinking can always be made larger.--hand tools are good for detail work and also increase the hole sizes these dimensions.