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#572694 - 08/12/19 01:52 PM Getting closer  
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 11,855
Frantically Relaxing Offline
Admiral
Frantically Relaxing  Offline
Admiral

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 11,855
With the fix-it-or-else deadline put on me I've been working on the beast every weekend. I'm here to tell ya, getting thru umpteen layers of bottom paint by ANY means is a pain in the arse. And eyes. Even the safety goggles and sandblast helmet isn't keeping all the crap out of my eyes. I've found the best mode of attack is 24 grit zirconium/resin sanding disks in an air sander or angle grinder to get thru the paint and rust to reach bare metal, followed by some sandblasting to get the rust out of the pits, followed by a dose of 50-50 water/phosphoric acid which etches the steel and pickles it to prevent rust. As aggressive as the sanding discs are, I get less than 1 square foot of use out of $1.18 disk before changing it out. The irony is they remove paint great, until I hit steel and wear 'em down a bit. Then they clog and just fade away. Going thru a lot of 'em.. Sandblasting's a messy pain, moving a 100# blasting pot gets old, and I roasted the reed valves in my air compressor making it keep up with me, had to fix that.. I've discovered phosphoric acid is my friend in all this, whereever it goes rust does not follow. The treated bare metal exposed the frequent rains lately are totally rust-free. I figure I'm 2, 3 at most weekends from starting the coal tar process.

Meanwhile, I still have 2 sets of bellows and gimbal bearings to replace before putting the 2 new drives on back. Picked up one of these gimbal bearing puller/installers off ebay-
[Linked Image]

yesterday I got both bearings out no problem, works like a charm. Funny, the port bearing with very little grease rolled like a marble on ice. The starbarboard bearing that was plastered with grease was froze up tight. Go figure. Putting new ones in will be a little less fun, takes a big hammer. I like the beefy pilot-install bar. Had to mark where the bearing pusher sits on the bar when bottomed out in the coupler, now I have to drill a hole thru the bar, the pusher has a 1/4" or so bolt that goes thru it and the bar. The pusher will be bolted 1/4" forward of my mark, this keeps the bar from bottoming the coupler during install, while using the coupler to align the bearing during the install. Guess it'll work smile

Still got lots to do, shooting for end of September done date.


[Linked Image]
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#572695 - 08/12/19 02:45 PM Re: Getting closer [Re: Frantically Relaxing]  
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,610
captkevin Offline
Admiral
captkevin  Offline
Admiral

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,610
Chicago, IL
Good to hear that the progress is going well. Can't imagine how good the feeling will be when you are finally done & its in the water.


2004 Rinker 232
2010 Dodge Ram Crew Cab Laramie 4x4
#572714 - 08/19/19 03:02 AM Re: Getting closer [Re: Frantically Relaxing]  
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 11,855
Frantically Relaxing Offline
Admiral
Frantically Relaxing  Offline
Admiral

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 11,855
So today I drilled the hole in the pilot tool/bar (love them cobalt drill bits!) and bolted the pusher ring in place.

Got my new bearings out and had a look. No instructions with me and no internet service so I had to use my brain: Which side goes in, which goes out? One side of the bearing is all uniform, the other side has 2 notches, about 3/4" long, across from each other on the inside of the outer race. Brain said to put the notched side in first, so most of the excess grease would go behind the bearing thru those notches. (so did my eyes, my old stbd bearing had a ton of grease on the back side wink )...

Next up, locate the gap in the bearing's outer ring, and the grease hole in the housing, as they need to line up. What I accidentally found out and didn't know, was that the outer ring can be easily removed--and just because I could, I did- and found out the ring was covering a 1/4" grease-hole on top of the bearing! Both bearing's holes were covered. So I aligned the gaps to the holes, happy that my Curious George thing paid off. I could see the grease holes down the pipe, they're about "3:18" o'clock. But once you start sticking a rod and bearing tool in there, visual sucks. So I grabbed the grease gun and pushed a little grease out of each hole. Worked like a charm, and now I know grease WILL move thru like it should. I smeared some grease around the bearing, made sure the grease hole wasn't covered, and found I had to put some grease between the bearing and pusher so the bearing wouldn't roll out of position. And finally a dot of grease on the pusher where the grease hole is. Now, staring down the pipe I could easily line up the dot and the grease squirt. The pilot tool goes quite a ways into the coupler before the bearing hits the edge, so you know it's going in straight. I borrowed a hand-sledge hammer, 5 or 6 pounds, and a piece of 2x4, and started pounding. It's a little disconcerting doing this, but necessary I guess! I didn't like the feel of the wood, or lack of feel, so I just hit the bar proper. No less disconcerting but it felt better. Started with the starboard and after about 8 whacks I stopped, and it looked pretty close. So I did the port bearing, and at around the 8th or 9th whack was obvious I'd hit bottom as the hammer rebounded hard, and the 'bang' was louder. I rotated the tool, turned freely full rotation. Had a look, yup, the port bearing was about 1/4" deeper in than the stbd... About the third good whack and the stbd bearing hit home. Pilot tool spun freely. Both bearings took about 5 pumps of grease which visibly oozed out slightly, and now THAT job is done!

--and it took me twice as long to type this post as it did to install both bearings! laugh (About 15-20 minutes tops)

This bearing tool works fantastic, probably saved me at least $250, money well spent!

I'm also getting closer to finishing the bottom. I've been worried about how well coal tar epoxy is going to stick to the bottom, but today I closely examined the coal tar I put on the west-facing side 3 years ago. It's applied to wire-brushed and sand blasted rusted spots and holes, and also on top of lightly sanded bottom paint. It's been facing west unobstructed and has gone thru 3 complete summer heat/winter cold cycles, and none of it has failed. I can't get it to flake or chisel off anywhere I tried. Pretty happy about that. FWIW the east-side is the same smile


[Linked Image]
#572715 - 08/19/19 11:08 AM Re: Getting closer [Re: Frantically Relaxing]  
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,508
On Holiday Offline
Daddy
On Holiday  Offline
Daddy
Admiral

Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,508
PA and Smith Mountain Lake
Great job.


2017 Honda Accord Hybrid
2008 Honda Goldwing Trike
2006 Regal 2400
2004 Dodge Ram 2500
2003 Ford F-150
2002 Harley Davidson Roadking Classic


#572716 - 08/19/19 11:33 AM Re: Getting closer [Re: Frantically Relaxing]  
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,610
captkevin Offline
Admiral
captkevin  Offline
Admiral

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,610
Chicago, IL
Good to hear the progress continues. Must feel pretty good.


2004 Rinker 232
2010 Dodge Ram Crew Cab Laramie 4x4
#572717 - 08/19/19 02:54 PM Re: Getting closer [Re: Frantically Relaxing]  
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,955
Jack T Offline
Admiral
Jack T  Offline
Admiral

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,955
Southern California
Very interesting. Thanks. You just might make your objective as the heat of summer turns to the brisk of fall. Hope all works out.


Have a great day of boating
2012 Monterey 224 FS,
300 HP Volvo Penta with catalytic converters


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