 |
 |
 |
 |
#464248 - 06/25/09 01:43 PM
Re: Key switch wiring
[Re: MoonlitCoyote]
|
Bilge Rat
Admiral
Registered: 01/14/04
Posts: 11860
Loc: Massachusetts
|
..... My switch lists the posts as mag,mag,sol,bat,acc,grd. So now maybe you see my problem. The posts dont seem to match the wires in any way that I can figure out. If you have a three position switch, you probably have three poles off the back, correct? i noticed once when i pulled a switch that the housing was a somewhat generic housing and had all the post positions labeled, but only had posts on three of them. I hope I said that non-cofusingly. First of all, I don't think all 7 wires go to your switch. You'll have a power to your switch (typically your BAT position), you should have a power going to your starter from your battery as this will feed the starter, but the IGN from your switch should go the starter solenoid/relay as your switch can not handle the starter in rush and current. One of those wires as you stated is for the choke. The wire from the ON position of the switch should go to supply power to the ignition system of the boat for powering the coil and such. I would say the request for the wiring diagram if so available would help greatly.
_________________________
Malibu Wakesetter 23XTI Bryant 214 Limited (gone, but not forgotten)
"That's my boat..." -Forest Gump
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
#464266 - 06/25/09 04:16 PM
Re: Key switch wiring
[Re: Titanium]
|
Warrant Officer
Registered: 06/24/09
Posts: 11
|
yes I have that diagram. And you are correct , the salmon wire does not go through to the engine harness(which is also confusing, why does it just stop at the plug?) Anyway, you have touched on the problem here. the letters on the back of the key switch are NOT labled like this so WHERE do I connect each wire to? As I stated earlier, my new key switch has 6 posts and they are labled like this.. mag, sol, grnd, mag, acc, bat,
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
#464345 - 06/25/09 09:55 PM
Re: Key switch wiring
[Re: MoonlitCoyote]
|
Admiral
Registered: 02/03/07
Posts: 954
Loc: Northern California
|
This is what I DO know, 3 of these wires go to the switch box, 1 to the choke and the other 3 go to the starter solenoid. Let's start with some basics. (Warning: I've never worked on an outboard engine of any sort. All of the following is from reading and deciphering the wiring diagram. My advice is only worth what you've paid for it.) I'm assuming that you have the male/female connector that connects the engine harness to the external harness? If so, do the colors and number of wires match that of the wiring diagram I posted? We should have the following: Engine Harness Connector:"A" Red (2 wires; 1 to switch box and 1 to starter solenoid) "B" Yellow (to starter solenoid) "C" Gray (to choke) "D" Black (to ground - maybe to starter solenoid also?) "F" White (to switch box) "G" Brown (to switch box) External Harness Connector"A" Red "B" Yellow "C" Gray "D" Black "E" Salmon "F" White "G" Brown The letters shown above should match up with markings on the engine/external harness connectors. Notice that the colors do not match up exactly on both sides of this connector. Namely the salmon wire on the external harness does not have a corresponding wire on the engine harness. And the engine harness side has two red wires, whereas the external harness side has only one red wire. Now if all of the above checks out EXACTLY, then we can go to the next step. If ANYTHING doesn't match up as listed above, then we need to iron that out before doing anything else. And right off from your first post I can see a problem. You said: So far I have the red wire to the battery post, the black wire to the ground and the yellow wire to the solenoid. You have the black and red wires hooked up correctly, but the yellow wire on the external harness side does not go to the solenoid. The yellow wire on the engine harness side should already be connected to the solenoid. So go ahead and disconnect the yellow wire that you had connected. I'm hoping you have an electrical meter of some sort that you can use to test your new key switch. The electrical meter doesn't have to be very fancy - all we're going to be checking is electrical continuity between different terminals while the switch is in the three different positions. What I need you to do is determine which terminals are connected to one another at the OFF position, at the ON position, and at the IGN position, and then post that information here. We'll get this thing sorted out once and for all !!
_________________________
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.  07 Cobalt 240 w/ Merc 496 Mag MPI V8 Bravo 3 05 Dodge Ram 1500 QuadCab 5.7L V8 Hemi 07 SeaDoo Wake 215, 1996 SeaDoo GTX, 05 HD Dyna SuperGlide
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
#464459 - 06/27/09 12:01 AM
Re: Key switch wiring
[Re: Titanium]
|
Admiral
Registered: 02/07/03
Posts: 10992
|
From what I can see---
The switchbox isn't much more than a central junction box, doesn't look like it does much else...
The mercury switch opens the brown 'trigger' circuit to the distributor if the engine is upside down, failsafe in case the boat capsizes. The brown trigger wire also "tells" the tach how fast the engine is going, the tach counts the trigger pulses from the distributor.
The white wire is HOT when the ignition switch is ON, it's fed from the switchbox, and powers the choke button and distributor.
The Yellow wire is HOT when the ignition switch is in START position, feeds the starter solenoid. The AC wires from the stator are yellow also. The rectifier changes AC current from the stator to DC current.
The gray wire is HOT (fed from the white) when the choke button is pushed, to activate the choke solenoid.
The Black is ground, as usual...
Red is battery, always HOT.
The salmon wire goes absolutely nowhere after it reaches the connector from the switch, I can only assume it's for a different motor diagram (so why is it still included?)
What puzzles me is the coil wiring, the lower wire is marked 'black ground', so I guess the upper unmarked black wire must be hot?
ANYWAY-- To be able to start the engine, everything must be connected as shown, I don't see any shortcuts...
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
#464496 - 06/27/09 12:07 PM
Re: Key switch wiring
[Re: Frantically Relaxing]
|
Admiral
Registered: 02/03/07
Posts: 954
Loc: Northern California
|
FR, Thanks for the info on how the tachometer works. I guess the white and black wires are for power, and the brown wire is for signal? The switchbox isn't much more than a central junction box, doesn't look like it does much else... There must be more inside of the "switch box" than just connections. I've seen replacement "switch boxes" on the Internet go for $150 on up. And this site shows a "switch box" for the 1250 as costing $360 !?!
_________________________
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.  07 Cobalt 240 w/ Merc 496 Mag MPI V8 Bravo 3 05 Dodge Ram 1500 QuadCab 5.7L V8 Hemi 07 SeaDoo Wake 215, 1996 SeaDoo GTX, 05 HD Dyna SuperGlide
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|