I've noticed that my Volvo outdrive has started to quickly corrode in a couple spots. The boat only has 53 hours, lives it's life on the trailer, and has never been left in the water overnight. So I'm thinking that the anodes are bad, or may not be a suitable material for the brackish water we boat in. Probably the later..........
In any case, I want to take some time this winter to repaint those spots to avoid further advancement of this corrosion problem. Couple questions...
Anyone know of a good source for step by step instructions on how to do this?
How difficult is it? Can a weekend warrior like myself do it over a weekend in the driveway?
Volvo-Penta drive........The one on the drive has developed a white-chalky residue. From what I've read so far, that seems to indicate that it needs replacing....(correct?)
I have no idea what anodes are installed currently- I think zinc. I'm due for a service pretty soon, so I think I'm going to have the dealer recommend and install the new anodes. As I have NO idea where the things are other than the one on the drive itself.......
I primarily boat in brackish water. With salt as a second, and fresh as a third ranking. I'm in a weird area where I have all three very close to me. But, primarily brackish. From what I've read so far, Aluminum is for brackish, zinc for salt, magnesium for fresh....
BToran
Admiral
Registered: 08/06/05
Posts: 2069
Loc: Glen Cove, New York
the white chalky residue indicates the anode is working. another indication is that it's actually shrinking over time. in addition to the anode wearing away, you ALSO have corrosion on the drive itself? if so, where is the corrosion? can you post a picture?
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Bruce Toran 1996 Carver 320 Voyager ----------------------------------------- "Don't Eat Anything Bigger Than Your Head"
On know of the newer drives my VP, there are actually three kinds of anode materials each with a seperate part number. Believe they are zinc, magnesium, and ???
Each material is specific for salt, fresh, ??
Maybe they are the wrong kind of anodes for your water conditions ?
The newer VP drive anodes are very easy to replace and shows you exactly in the manual. They also provide torque specs.
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2008 Formula 310BR - 377 MAGs w/DTS
the white chalky residue indicates the anode is working. another indication is that it's actually shrinking over time. in addition to the anode wearing away, you ALSO have corrosion on the drive itself? if so, where is the corrosion? can you post a picture?
Yeah...I'll have to post one... I'm picking it up from the storage lot on Saturday. As we may have decent boating day this weekend.......As soon as I see the drive it will remind me to snap a pic.
450xdad, I boat in brackish also and have experienced some corrosion on my volvo dps outdrive. The zinc anodes may help, but did your boat come with an active corrosion protection system? If so you may want the dealer to make sure it is receiving power and the connection to the drive is solid. Also with the acps, there should be two sets of led's the glow red or green showing the amount of protection your drive is getting, and your manual should state what the different sets of colors mean. If you don't have one, you might want to ask the dealer if one can be installed, it runs about $200.
For repainting, do a search on the board there are plenty of older posts showing the proper procedure. Good luck and don't sweat it.
I have a similar situation with my boat. I bought it new, leftover. I have asked the service department to check out Volvo-Penta and what they will do. There are lots of spots, some big, some small. The tech said, "you know they had some paint adhesion problems." I am waiting to hear.
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2005 Ebbtide 2100 Sport Cuddy 5.0 Volvo SX
I've noticed that my Volvo outdrive has started to quickly corrode in a couple spots. The boat only has 53 hours, lives it's life on the trailer, and has never been left in the water overnight. So I'm thinking that the anodes are bad, or may not be a suitable material for the brackish water we boat in. Probably the later..........
The anodes only provide protection while the boat is in the water. Replacing anodes won't hurt, but won't fix the problem either. They are designed to be a sacrificial material in the electrolosys process that occurs while the boat and drive are in the water. Corrosion that occurs on a trailer boat the lives on a trailer is due to metal being exposed due to scratches, poor paint adhesion or other damage. Your best course of action is to remove the corrosion from the drive and repaint. Keep an eye on it and if the corrosion reappears, clean and repaint again.
In addition, take extra care to wash down the boat and drive after you use it in Salt Water.