So, Prepping to winterize (yech). Las year I had the dealer do it, this year, me. So according to the manual it takes a "special VP tool" to remove the props.

True? Any experience out there?

Yep, a special too is needed. At least for the inner prop nut. It's huge and you'll have about 6" of the smaller propshaft sticking out. It takes a mighty deep socket to clear it!

Hang on, the guys with VP DPs will be along any minute to give you the description, part number, and cost of the their favorite DuoProp propnut wrench.

I bought mine on eBay, I haven't used it yet though.

DPS tool

That looks to be what I bought, and that is the seller I purchased from. I don't have the part # in front of me, but I can get it for you tomorrow if someone hasn't posted it yet.

Yup, that's the one I have, I think I paid $35 at a local dealer.
Seems flimsy, but so far has worked ok.

I also bought an extra set of prop nuts in case I lost one. The nuts cost more than the VP wrench set, I think they were $54.

I bought my Prop Tool here.

The tool that I got from my dealer had the flimsiest of leverage bars ever. I bent it trying to take the outer nut off and haven't yet been successful in removing the props. I did buy a good socket of the same size and a good socket wrench with sufficient length to prvide the leverage needed, at least for the outside nut. I'm concerned about trying to use the kit provided bar for the inside nut though. I'm telling ya, I'm dissapointed with the quality of the "genuine" VP tool. IMO it sucks. I'll be having my dealer remove the prop, with my tool, while I watch when I bring it up for winterizing.

Same tool I have.

Remember one nut is left hand threaded and the other is right.

Put lots of the proper lube on the prop and shaft when you reinstall so you can get it off next time.

Some folks put a bit of LocTite on the threads. Use the red stuff as the green stuff is darn near permanent if you do.

I knew you guys would come through. Thanks!

Same tool I have -- bought from ebay for about $25 -- not a great savings --

worked OK -- no issues -- although it isn't a substantial thing -

the important thing is grease the shafts once you do get your props off -- then once a year will not be hard -- I have now removed mine a couple of times - no issues.

Parrot, I think both nuts are right handed, but because they are on counter-rotating props, you have to have the engine in forward to remove one and in reverse to remove the other one.

Yes, both nuts are right handed and are lock nuts. The proper torque on both is not particularly high, Assuming they haven't been tightened up using a 6 foot tube as a lever, I'm surprised they're so tight they cannot be removed, unless there's no grease at all on the threads (or splines; in which case the props won't come off anyhow!)

Back in 2001 I made my own prop removal tool out of an 8" length of steel gas pipe; ID 2 1/8", wall thickness 7/32", three 1/4" wide x 3/4" long slots 120 deg apart cut at one end. (see, we haven't forgotten about imperial units in the UK!). A plate/ bolt is welded at the other end, so I can use a socket and torque wrench on it when refitting the nut. It's been used every year since, no distortion at all.

Graham

Spec:

Front nut: 45 ft-lbs.
Rear nut: 50 ft-lbs.

Part #3855876-3 along with a 30mm 1/2" drive socket will allow you to torque with a torque wrench. It seems to me that many mechanics tighten them FAR beyond those specs, which is why the other tool (3855876 with no suffix) seems so flimsy when trying to remove them.

Wow those torque specs are low compared to Mercruiser's Bravo 3!

Yes, and it's a little disconcerting tightening the $600 rear prop to only 50 ft-lbs. when the only thing holding it on is a Nylock nut. However, after two seasons doing just that, I still have both props.

Well, I guess I should qualify that. The rear prop torque on a B3 is about the same. And like you, mine has never been loose in 11 summers and 800 hours. Plus on a B3, the length of the fine threads is substanstial. But the forward prop nut torque value is 90-100ft-lbs on a B3. And that flimsy VP tool wouldn't stand up to that. Mercruiser's deep socket for the forward nut is a decently heavy piece of steel (I assume it's steel, it's heavy and it rusts) that takes a 1/2" drive handle to operate.

I got my prop tool (for VP-DP) from Marine Parts Experss. It's a substantial steel tube with a 1/2" drive at one end. I also got the VP prop grease and as many have said, use lots of grease. www.marinepartsexpress.com

Naw, ones left handed. You just have to twist a lot harder on it and when it come off there are no thread left on the nut.


Oh ok...have it your way....both are righties.....