Here is one designed for use with Maxwell Windlasses:

300ft Rode with 20ft chain for Maxwell

This is where I bought mine, but I bought 200ft. However, it looks like they no longer carry windlasses, so the rode is on close out, so looks like this is all they have left.

Either one would probably work, but for roughly the same price, you can get 30ftchain/200ft rode or 20ftchain/300ft rode.

Good find Al. It's usually safer to go with the same chain and rode that the MFG. of the windlass uses. Less chance of screwing up the inner workings of an expensive windlass. IMO.

When I bought mine, it came in a 5 gallon plastic bucket - the kind used for paint, pickles, or whatever. The rode was coiled up in the bucket, and it sure was heavy.

Isn't 1/4 chain and 1/2 rope the same? As long as the splice is designed for a windlass I don't see any issue.

EDIT: posted before I saw Al's reply, still expensive.

Boater's Land (200ft rode/30ft chain) = $364
Consumer's Marine (300ft rode/20ft chain) = $379

I guess it depends on how much rode you need (and how much locker room you have).

And yes, its crazy-expensive...

My neighbor had bought what he thought was "the same" chain and rope for his windlass on his Sea Ray. He loaded it and used it no more than 3 times, the chain did not agree for some reason with his windlass, it jammed every time, and he had to go to the bow and manually free it up. Luckily, he was able to return the chain and rode where he bought it for a minimal re stocking fee. He then ordered the chain and rode that originally came with his windlass, it has worked dozens of times flawlessly since. It was more expensive, but well worth it in the long run. Just one experience I am aware of, your experience may vary.

Would anyone think there would be issues with something like below passing through the windlass?

Chain Link

Link now working...

workie now

Workie now...I really do not see any issues UNLESS for some reason the link undone and jammed the windlass. I think you would then have a major mess on your hands. Not saying it would happen...but you never know.

That is going to be a tough one to answer - I think it would depend on the gypsy design.

On my Lewmar windlass, it had cavities in the gypsy that were basically slots for the links. If that link was too large - it could jamb, I think.

C4W, I added 150' of chain to my all chain rode and used the kind of splice link that you posted the link to. If you buy the repair link in the same size as your regular chain links it goes through the windlass just like a regular chain link.

I suggest you add extra chain at the anchor end of the rode. That way you don't have to worry about making a new splice where it connects to the line, and you don't have to split your existing chain.

Just undo the connection (shackle?) where your existing chain attaches to the anchor. Use a link of the type you posted, and reconnect the shackle where the new chain will attach to the anchor.

When you use that repair splice you'll find it easy to use if you lay the chain out on the driveway. Assemble it all, then use a propane torch to heat those tips. Once the tips get red hot, hold the repair link in place with pliers then hammer down the tips to spread them out. That will make the repair link as strong as a regular link.