So my 86' Bayliner cuddy has decided it likes to be a headache and developed a pair of stress cracks on the running strakes a few weeks back. Both appear to originate from the tip of a running strake and spread out about an inch in each direction. They occur on both side symmetrically on the boat, one on each side where I believe a bulkhead is located. One side is very very faint and looks like it might not even go all the way through the gel coat. The other side is a little more evident but I do not know yet if it goes through to the fiberglass or if the fiberglass itself is cracked.

I took the boat to a shop for an estimate but the guy has told me that since it is an older boat and that even if he repairs it, it might return fairly soon again. He said the boat is currently in safe condition but depending on how it is run it may not last for long. He said his shop does not do these types of repairs due to the liability of "if" the repair doesn't hold some people may try to hold him liable. He estimated it would run around $1000 to "band-aid" repair it but could only recommend I see if another shop would be willing to do it.

I'm debating sanding down the gel coat on the worse side to see if the fiberglass shoes any damage. If I do not see any....should I simple apply some new gel coat and just keep an eye on it? Or should I try to sand down a larger section and put another thin layer of fiberglass over the area? The area of cracking is probably 3"x3" on the worse side.

I also don't see how doing what I described above would be $1000 of repair work either?? I've also found articles that claim repaired fiberglass can be just as strong if not stronger than the original? (Though it may be slightly thicker).

I'll take a slight bump on the bottom of the boat if a little extra fiberglass will give me peace of mind that the bottom isn't going to blow out.

I'll post some pics after I go to the shop to pick it up.

Thanks for hearing me out guys.

Is this because your boat isn't stiff enough, i.e. the stringers aren't as rigid as before? (no crude jokes guys.)

Agree.

I wouldn't be so concerned about a crack as I would be the bulkhead and stringers behind the fiberglass - which are no doubt wood in that age boat.

The fiberglass guy knows that if he gets into it and the wood is rotten, it may very expensive to repair.

I think you need to get to the inside of that area and see what it looks like. It sounds like the boat is flexing longitudinally. I would go to a shop that specializes in structural repair or if you feel confident then pull the floor out and see what you have.

Personally I would not feel safe without seeing the stringers and bulkheads for myself, as well as the inside of the glass.

How is the floor? Any soft spots?

22 year old Bayliner develops stress cracks . . . what else is new?

I would not repair, the guy at the shop is right, not worth it and may re-appear.

If you are concerned about water penetration, use the stuff called "creeping crack cure" available at most marine centers.

I had the boat surveyed a year ago and the surveyor at least said he thought the stringers were all in good shape. The floor is all in pretty good shape. One spot in the back has a very very slight give to it in front of the engine over the fuel tank but it takes a good eye to notice the movement at all.

What size boat is it?

I would be tempted to do what tpenfield suggested and make two small dark bench marks. Inspect before and after each use. Unless you are doing some really hard wave pounding I would not expect a "calamitous" failure. Do you boat on a calm lake or out on more open, rougher water?

Make sure the life vests are handy, and you have a radio.

21' Cuddy. I usually run on Lake Erie which can be fairly rough at times. I always take it really easy if it's rough out there though.

I would look into getting another, newer boat before spending any money on hull repairs on a 22 y.o. boat.

The problem with NOT repairing it, is the boat then essentially becomes totally worthless. That boat in "useable" condition is still worth a few thousand bucks. Minus the cost to repair it, it's STILL money back when you sell it vs. whatever you might get parting it out...