One of the only things I've always been disapointed with on my boat, is the bimini.

I don't like the way it's mounted, but have made a fix for that.

And I don't like the way it flaps at speeds above 30mph. I have even had the center seams come loose and I had a canvas shop fix them for me. The guy did a good job.

I see all these bimini's on these boats that do over 80~100mph. I guess they are tight on the frame and I'm guessing the frames are more sturdy, maybe stainless steel?

I'm considering going to the canvas shop that fixed my seams and ask if he can redo the canvas on bimini to make a tight secure fit which can hold up to 50mph.

My quetion here is, would this be possible using my existing aluminum frame, or is this hopeless unless I get a SS frame?

Or, are there any adjustments I can make that would tighten it up? I've tried tightening the forward straps as much as I could.
If I shorten the rear post, or move the connecting point up on the rear part of V frame, would this put more tension on the canvas? Would the bimini remain level, or would this just bring the rear down lower than the front?

It's a taylor made. You can kind of see it in this pic

Do you have an ising glass front for your Bimini? About the only thing I can think of is to use that to keep air from getting under the Bimini.

Stainless is certainly stronger, but there is a lot of play in the typical bimini frame, so I am not sure if it will help in your application.

Stainless is generally recommended in wide frames - those that are wider than 8'-6".

But stainless frames usually use stainless hardware, where aluminum frames usually are fitted with nylon hardware.

I think even if you upgraded to stainless hardware, there is enough play in it that I don't think it will help in your situation.

Best thing to do if you don't have an ising glass front connector is to fold up the bimini at high speed.

"ising glass front"

? I don't know what that is. I'm guessing I don't have it. Do you mean like an enclosed front that would connect the bimini to the windshield? If so, I don't.

Yes, we have had to close up the bimini several times when running. This is what I'd like to avoid.

A Fountain's bimini can take it, study theirs would be a thought.

About how fast are you looking to go with the bimini up?

Mine has a label on it that says not to exceed 35 mph or damage may occur. I run mine at WOT and as long as the frt straps are TIGHT it's no problem (50+ MPH) It goes along for the ride no flapping or wobble.
I was looking at the pic and noticed your straps are on the outboard frt of the bow and attach down to the frt deck ? If it makes any differance mine are attached to the top of the windshield frame and the straps are on both side of the bow window opening which makes for a lot shorter strap. When the straps dangle they are approx 6" from the frame and we pull the strap down to attach. If the vibrate they are not tight enough. SS hardware might make a differance but IMO it's in the connection up front. Pouring rain right now so I can't get a pic to show you what I mean.

Brian:
My boat will only do about 50, so don't need much.

And sometimes I tow a short distance with the bimini open. But when I do, I stay under 40 on the road.

If I'm WOT with the wind, no problem. But if there is a bit of a head or side wind, I can't run over 35 or so without worrying about the bimini coming apart.


Seabuddy:
I have been looking at fountains and other go-fast boats. They seem to be more flat and tight on the frame. This is why I'm wondering if I can have a canvas shop do a better job at fitting my canvas to my frame, than the OEM did.

See this bimini on the sheriff's boat.

BTW, you may be right about the shorter strap up front. I have noticed that many of the bimini's on fast boats may have the straps aft, and the posts up front.

found this pic from vacation 45mph+ comming across Burt Lake heading to Indian River.

I say replace the front with poles. My Ebbtide has no straps.

Study a Cobalt Bimini. They have a traditional shape like yours, but can operate at 50 MPH, no problem.

First, I have a cobalt bimini if you want to buy it to try. That was a shameless plug.

We had a bimini built for our tower when we had it installed. IT is steady, but after the last trip I noticed the strap on the drivers side seperated the dog clip where the strap connects to the tower from the bimini. I'm currently looking into heavier duty clips or I may have poles made.

The bimini on the tower doesn't rock and roll, but in this case got enough air underneath to pull on those straps really hard. 55mph into a headwind. So, I will also be looking at changing the angle slightly to drop the front of the bimini just a little.

A tight bimini is going to help, but only if the frame and rest of the mounts can support it and keep it tight.

it's the straps, go with poles up front.

I have the FW bimini on my boat, and it's quite a large one too. It's poles in back, straps in front. I've run that fast with it up, but normally do not just because it doesn't seem like it would be good for it. My straps attach differently than yours. They are attached from the vertical top of the front pole (vs the horizontal part of the front bow), and down to clips situated outside and fwd of the windshield. Mine are at a greater angle than yours are too, ie, anchored farther forward. Yours appear to be nearly vertical, which to my mind means less stable.

I also wonder if it has to do with the "attitude" of the bimini. If it's "nose-high" it would catch lots more air than if the front edge were lower, rather than higher. IDK.

I certainly would never trailer my boat with the top up. That seems like asking for trouble to me.

Give Juan at American Canvas in Montclair a call. He's the best I've come across.

American Canvas
5630 Holt Blvd
Montclair, CA 91763
(909) 624-3260

I did business with American Canvas, but that was a long time ago. I really liked them.

Look at the Center Console boat guys treatments, too.

Do you want the Bimini to go down or just totally come off the boat while its still up?