I just downsized from a cruiser, which I kept at a slip, to a bowrider that I am trailering. I was going to create a checklist and attach it to my trailer so I do not forget anything. What items should I put on the list, other than the biggies (plug in, outdrive trimmed coming out)?

Thanks.

- rear tie down straps off
- everything in tow vehicle moved to boat before launch (to me, this is much easier than trying to carry it all from TV to docked boat)
- run blower and sniff test
- fenders/dock lines ready if needing to dock at courtesy dock
- trailer clips/transom saver removed if used
- unplug lights if needed (if lenses aren't water tight)

no particular order on above...just typed them as they came to me.

I live a stone's throw from 2 launch ramps. And even before living here, the one thing I've seen over and over in harbors is this scenario:

Someone backs the boat down the ramp.

Boat slides off the trailer.

Trailer & driver go park.

Boat floats around harbor like a turd in a punchbowl because it won't start...

So if there's one piece of advice I can give about trailer-boating,
be sure your boat will start before you unhook the winch!

Um, putting in the garboard drain plug might be a really good idea, too.

And put the transom up when retrieving.

DON'T JUMP OFF THE BOAT ONTO A HOT DOCK BAREFOOT !!!

Are you really going to sit there at the ramp and read thru a check list???

My advice is go thru the obvious stuff in your mind as practice and then at the ramp continually look the boat and trailer over as you think about the next step in the process. This may give you some flexibility in your process to deal with the stuff that 'happens'. By contineuosly monitoring what is needed next, you can avoid the mishaps and associated YouTube postings.

Over time you will build a routine that is second nature.

I agree, a checklist might be a bit much, but whatever works for you.

All good suggestions, I especially like FR's, "make sure your boat starts BEFORE it comes off the trailer."

Excellent advice ! After pulling my boat out of the garage and before heading to the lake, I usually hook up a water hose to the engine flush fitting and fire the engine up. This accomplishes two things:

(1) Ensures that the batteries have enough juice to start it up (duh), and

(2) For whatever reason, the boat starts right up after it slides off the trailer at the lake. (None of this "hit the starter 2, 3 or 4 times" to get it going). This is probably because fuel has had a chance to travel through the lines.

What works for us....

In the prep area:

- move everything you need from the truck to the boat
- get the kids situated (life vests & stationed away from the ramp)
- turn the blower on
- put the plug in (or double-check it if already in)
- dock lines in cleats & positioned
- disconnect trailer lights
- transom straps disconnected & stowed

W/a bunk trailer... back the boat to the water:

- release the winch (and safety chain if you have one)
- have someone hold the dock line, ready to pull the boat to the dock when it floats
- slowly back the boat in the water until it floats
- park the truck & trailer and have fun!

Everyone has a procedure that works for them – this is a variation of our routine...
Think smart, take it slow, know the basics and a good routine will develop.

BTW, tpenfield has some of the best advice so far

A goo set of info and videos here:

http://www.shorelandr.com/pages/o_e_tips.aspx

Here's an overkill list.

Talks about a hoist, but similar for a trailer.

BOAT OPERATION CHECKLIST

First Operation of Each Day:

1. Remove, fold and stow cockpit and bow covers in compartment ahead of helm.
2. Stow covers’ support rods on clamps in floor locker.
3. Reinstall the PortaPotti if necessary.
4. Retrieve and unlock hoist pendant and lower hoist until boat floats.
5. Manually move boat back in hoist 18”-24”.
6. Turn Key to “Run” position (1 click clockwise).
7. Lower drive unit all the way.
8. Turn Key off.
9. Raise hoist until boat is stable on cradle.
10. Raise Engine Cover all the way.
11. Check the following fluids –
a. Engine Oil (Yellow Top) - dipstick
b. Power Steering Fluid (Red Printing on Black Cap) – dipstick on cap
c. Drive Lube Reservoir (Black Cap on small translucent bottle) – visual on container markings
d. Trim Fluid (In back corner of the compartment on the right as you face aft) – visual on container rim
e. Coolant (Large translucent expansion tank with red liquid at left front of compartment as you face aft).

DO NOT OPERATE BOAT IF ANY OF THESE FLUID LEVELS IS DEFICIENT!

12. Close engine cover.
13. Go to Step #7 Below.


Leaving the Hoist Each Time:

1. Unlock hoist pendant and lower hoist until boat floats.
2. Manually move boat back in hoist 18”-24”.
3. Turn Key to “Run” position (1 click clockwise).
4. Lower drive unit all the way.
5. Turn Key off.
6. Raise hoist until boat is stable on cradle.
7. Turn on Bilge Blower.
8. Set up gangplank.
9. Board passengers.
10. Remove gangplank.
11. Configure sun pad and/or seat cushions.
12. Brief passengers on location of life jackets and throwing cushion.
13. Advise passengers to keep appendages inside the boat and not to attempt to fend boat off dock or hoist.
14. Lower hoist to appropriate “backing off” level.
15. Place throttle in full “back” (closed) position (should already be there).
16. Place shift lever in neutral (should already be there).
17. Start engine.
18. Allow engine to idle until temperature gauge begins to rise.
19. Place shift lever in reverse – do not use throttle.
20. Steer stern straight back or just slightly away from dock at idle.
21. As stern clears the dock and bow clears the hoist, watch boat’s proximity to dock (both bow and stern) – remember, the stern moves in the direction the steering wheel is turned when backing and the bow shifts slightly in the opposite direction, then it FOLLOWS. This is NOT like a car’s steering.
22. Keep a sharp eye out behind and along the dock while backing and changing from reverse to forward drive!
23. When clear of the dock, shift to neutral, check engine gauges, and then shift into forward gear.

Fully operational, gauge readings should be:

Fuel -- ¼ tank or more.
Volts -- 13.0 to 14.7
Temp -- No more than about 165 degrees
Oil Pressure -- about 40 psi


Returning to the Hoist Each Time:

1. Be sure arch light is laid down.
2. Establish your straight-in approach line shortly after crossing inside the buoys.
3. Gauge the wind drift and allow for it.
4. Trim all the way down.
5. Reduce throttle to idle.
6. Take your hand off the throttle and do not put it back there until the boat is in the hoist.
7. Place hand on shifter.
8. You should not have to steer much, but if you do, keep track of the “straight” steering wheel position.
9. If you feel you are not properly aligned with the hoist, execute your “missed approach” now, before you are alongside the dock – to do so, turn right without changing throttle or shift position, and go back to Step #2.
10. When you have the hoist “made” (lined up well and with enough forward momentum to carry the boat gently into the hoist) shift to neutral.
11. If speed is too great, place wheel in “straight” position and shift briefly into reverse, and then back to neutral to slow the boat speed.
12. Allow the boat to glide onto the hoist cradle.
13. Place shifter in forward, and gently add throttle until the boat slides fully into the hoist.
14. When you feel the drive bump the motor stop on the hoist, close the throttle
15. Shift into neutral.
16. Shut off engine.
17. Shut off bilge blower.
18. Raise hoist until boat is stable on cradle.
19. Set up gangplank and offload passengers.
20. Remove gangplank.
21. Turn key to “Run” position and raise drive to trailering position.
22. Turn off key and place key chain in your pocket.
23. Lower the hoist until the boat floats and manually move it ahead 18”-24”, or until the raised drive bumps the motor stop.
24. Raise the hoist until the boat is stable in the cradle.
25. Move the hoist pendant to the port side.
26. Make sure the bilge blower, all switches and all lights and the radio are off.
27. If this is the last use of the day, go to Step #1 below, otherwise --
28. Debark the boat and turn the pendant lock to automatic.
29. Check that the boat is square on the hoist. If not, lower the hoist and re-float the boat to square it up, then turn the key to automatic to raise the hoist.
30. Stow the hoist pendant.


At the end of each day’s use:

1. Be sure all wet PFDs, towels, any beverages or ice and all personal items are removed from the boat cockpit, coolers and compartments.
2. If the head has been used, remove the PortaPotti for servicing. (The Captain gets to service the PortaPotti!)
3. Drain and dry the coolers and compartments as necessary.
4. Pump out the bilge.
5. Stow any towropes, skis or towables that are not properly stowed.
6. Remove the covers and support rods from the compartment and floor locker.
7. Install covers and support rods.
8. Go to Step #28 above.

Sheesh, when would you have time to boat?

Seeing as your not in the habit of trailering here's some reminders.

1) Visually check your tire inflation even if you don't actually put a gauge on it every time.

2) Check your straps as they may have loosened during your last journey.

3) Check and double check your trailer is hitched to your truck properly and periodically check your hitch mounting bolts.

4) Check your electrics are working.

5) Ensure your covers are fastened down properly.

6) Get gas for the boat at the gas station and not at the marina.

Thanks for all of the tips. This is very helpful!