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#415688 - 06/21/08 09:36 PM
Tow Vehicle sag and effect
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Admiral
Registered: 01/14/04
Posts: 1525
Loc: Highland, Michigan
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I just got back from a great week on vacation, looking forward to two more starting on the 4th. As some may know, I normally drive an Aztek, and am quite happy with it. For towing to the local ramp, less then a mile away in my subdivision, I have no complaints. It doesn't, however, cut the mustard on long trips loaded up to camp. This year, I borrowed my dad's '98 Astro, and was much happier. It's clearly built to handle the towing, and I had a lot less stress driving.
There was one issue, when I hitched the boat up, I had major sag on the van. It was close to bottoming out. This happened before any gear went into the van or boat, so it wasn't any better when we loaded up. I noticed a fair amount of fishtailing going on that I NEVER experienced on the overloaded Aztek. When changing lanes or getting passed by a large vehicle, I could feel and see the trailer swaying. Also had a lot of bounce in the rear end going over anything bumpy.
I'm looking for opinion on my issue here. My first thought was light tongue weight, but I seriously doubt that's the case, particularly with the major sag going on. I wonder if bad springs or shocks could be doing this. I've got two weeks to get some work done, but I don't want to throw money away. HELP!
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1989 Larson DC 190
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#415722 - 06/21/08 11:01 PM
Re: Tow Vehicle sag and effect
[Re: D-Rod]
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Admiral
Registered: 01/14/04
Posts: 1525
Loc: Highland, Michigan
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The Astro should tow a 19 foot boat just fine, and is known to tow much more. I think D-Rod is dead on, not an uncommon occurrence.
I'm not a moron, it does have a receiver hitch, and without the sag, the height would be good. With the rear end low, the trailer is pointing down just a bit. Not ridiculous, but a bit.
I thought about new springs, and air shocks. I hadn't thought about the coil over shocks, and don't know much about them.
My thoughts on the air shocks are that it's a bandaid. Shocks shouldn't be carrying load, right? Just helping with ride. (On the other hand, why does GM do the air shock to adjust ride height on most of it's SUV's?)
I think beefier springs are the best bet, but I don't think I'll like that bill. What's the pro-cons of the coil over shocks?
Thanks for the advice so far.
Edited by casualboater (06/22/08 12:14 AM)
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1989 Larson DC 190
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#415753 - 06/22/08 07:28 AM
Re: Tow Vehicle sag and effect
[Re: trooplewis]
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Admiral
Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 970
Loc: Long Island NY
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Well the best thing to do is measure the ride height of the vehicle, unloaded and see how it is compared to how it should be. If the ride height is lower than it should be even unladen, then the rear springs have sagged and should be replaced. Common on older Jeep Cherokees, you see a lot of them sitting low in the rear, and all kinds of suspension mods are available for them. I bet some company makes a heavier duty spring for those vans because they were in production a long time. If the springs are not sagged but the tongue weight causes it to sag, first measure the tongue weight and make sure it's in limits for the weight of the boat and trailer (usually 5-7 % of the total weight). If your tongue weight is correct, and you get sag, you can go to a heavier duty spring but that can make the unladen ride rougher. I used a set of Air Lift air bags in my 98 Jeep. They fit inside the rear coils and make a huge difference towing. Unladen ride is unaffected, you just run enough air to keep the bag from collasping. I would not use air shocks, because shock mounts are not designed to be weight carrying. Go to either Air Lift's or Firestone's website (their product is called Ride Rite) and do some reading. If you can't or do not want to use a WD hitch, it is the only other way besides heavy duty springs, and a product called Timbrens, to level the vehicle.
Edited by Lou C (06/22/08 07:28 AM)
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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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