I was doing my pre=flight for the A.M. and found a trailer stop/signal light out. It's a sealed assembly so you have to by the whole thing i guess. I looked on boaters world and it looks like they have something like it. So I have a couple choices:

1. Take my chances a go in the morning with the light out and risk a ticket or worse. Maybe stop at searay dealer and see if they have one.

2. See if the local BW store(15 miles) has one in the A.M. which will make it an afternoon launch.

3. Go to chap dealer (40 miles)and launch there and hope he has one I can change for the trip home.

whatever I do, I think I'll buy a spare.

They go out on cars all the time...seems like every day I see one or two with a rear brake light or signal out.

I think if it was me, I'd make the trip, but I can't advise that because if something happens I'd be in deep doo-doo, you know the drill.

Depending on the style, you might try a truck stop...

Is it the type with a regular bulb inside but then sealed? Mine are like that and I thought one had burned out. Since we are in boonies and no marine stores nearby, my emergency plan for a Sunday outing was to cut open the lens, replace bulb and use clear packing to hold together until I could get a replacement. Of course, I'd need to unplug lights before dunking trailer. I swapped left/right to verify it was blown and turned out to be a loose wire. Next time I was near a West Marine I bought a spare that's been in truck every since.

Problem solved, Advance Auto parts store had a couple types, i went for the Red LEDs type with clear lenses. Had to buy two so they would match, I'll pop them in first thing in the A.M.
thanks and happy and safe boating this weekend

Just a shot - but did you clean the contacts at the plug / receptical ?? Test for power at the lamp ?

If one is bad - how confident are you in the other lasting ? Convert them over to LED - not that much more these days.

Wallmart / Pepboys / Kmart / and most Farm Outdoor Equipment stores carry trailer parts.

Good Luck

Scott

Yea I checked power with a continuity tester. Going to look for LED type for the lightbar in the center next, one of them is burned out too.

any light you can attach to the side of trl or rear of boat and splice into the wiring would work in a jiffy. Then you could tow legally and fix proper later.
Even a flashlight and some red tape may make you legal at night if your running lights went out.

I've had so many problems with lights on trls and tow vehicles over the years, I have a set of them magnetic lights that I use when towing the jeep or other trls. Of course they don't work for the boat due to brake lock-out.

Well these LED lights are rated at 10,000 hours with a lifetime replacement if they fail so I should be good for a while. Had to snap one of the ground wire screws off as it was rusted to bad. Why anyone would use steel in wet enviornment is beyond me. I put aircraft aluminium bolts and nuts with a steel washer in. They should last a while. I knew all those screws and nuts I saved from my crew chief days in the AF would come in handy someday.

I also RTVed em in cause they did not fit as snuggly in the holes as the old ones. They are extremly bright and I like em. The clear lenses look nice too.

Well these LED lights are rated at 10,000 hours with a lifetime replacement if they fail so I should be good for a while. Had to snap one of the ground wire screws off as it was rusted to bad. Why anyone would use steel in wet enviornment is beyond me. I put aircraft aluminium bolts and nuts with a steel washer in. They should last a while. I knew all those screws and nuts I saved from my crew chief days in the AF would come in handy someday.

I also RTVed em in cause they did not fit as snuggly in the holes as the old ones. They are extremly bright and I like em. The clear lenses look nice too.

BAD call.

It's called Galvanic Corrosion, caused by putting 2 different metals together and adding moisture.

Go Stainless Steel instead.

I had Crew Chief days myself, nearly 8 years, then spent the last 12 years building production airplanes.

Point taken and yea it happens. But you also know that every aircraft has dissimilar metals mixed everywhere. Titanium and alum. wing roots, Steel bearings in alum. housings. alum wire with steel connections, ok maybe that's a bad one, remember the F16s? It's a ground wire and easily fixable if it does corrode but I suspect it will take years and won't rust through like the previous ones. But I will be able to get the nuts off next time. If I had stainless, I would have used em but didn't.

I worked on C-141s, how about you?