If #4 cable won't do the job for your stereo, I would sure like to hear it when you're done!!

Troop - it has to do with voltage drop, not current capability.

No, 2ga is NOT worth the extra. As stated, peak draw is not continuous and 4 ga is hard enough to route (stiff) 2ga is several times worse.

I used to run a LOT of 2, 4, and 6 ga wire in aircraft (VERY finr strand, which helps flexibility) 2 and 4 STILL suk to route. 6 would IMO still be suficcient, especially is, in some careful shopping, you can find some very fine strand wiring.

Thanks for all of the help. I have a couple more questions:

1. Does it matter if I run the power and ground right next to each other from the battery to the HU and back? Also, how big of a deal is it to have the power/ground cables next to the speaker wires? I'm not sure if I will be able to get away with not doing this. Is there any way to minimize the effect of having them close to speaker wires?

2. As stated before, I have 2 amps - 1 for the Bazooka and one for the cockpit speakers. How should I wire the remote turn-on for each of these since my H/U only has one remote output. Do I split the remote and run one to each amp? Or can I run the remote to one amp and the jump it to the other?

3. Can I run the power/ground cables into my dual battery switch? Or do I have to run them directly to the battery? I would really like to have them swtiched like the rest of the electronics onboard.

Thanks!
Hogislander.

1. Yes, you can run all of the wires together. There won't be enough interaction to have issue.

2. You have to hook both amp remotes to the single remote on the head unit. It doesn't matter if you run separate wires or "dasiy chain". Use the method that results in less wire.

3. The wire must be adequately fused. USCG requires all leads from the battery to be fused within 7" of its source. Only the starter circuit may be unfused.

So the answer for that question is determined by the connection of the A/B switch. I do suspect that the A/B switch is directly connected to the battery, so if true, you need to fuse the speaker power positive wire where it attaches to the A/B switch. You can run the ground directly to the main ground on the boat.

Al,
You're a HUGE help man. I really appreciate it. I'm planning on installing next weekend so I will be sure to come back with some pics.

Thanks again!

FYI, you need to try and at least keep the RCAs away from the power and ground wires. If you don't, there is a real good chance that you'll get some alternator whine, as well as some other electrical interference.

To see my install, go here -

http://www.boatingabc.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/389426/new_tower.html#Post389426

I had to put in a Ground Loop Isolator (GLI) to get rid of the alternator whine, but I still have some significant interference when I hit the trim switch.

FYI, my amp is in under the rear bench seat close to the batteries. I wanted it back there so that I wouldn't have to run long power wires (I only have a 3.5' run and I'm using 8ga).

Here is my 2 cents:
I just finished putting in a 2000 watt 6 channel amp. 4 MB Quart 6.5", a 12"sub and a new JVC HD radio head unit in my pontoon. The toon gave me a lot of mounting options for the amp. The JVC head unit had 6 RCA outputs making it a lot easier to hook up to amps (129.00 at Crutchfield)
Here is what I learned from Crutchfield and the local stereo store
1)Keep the ground and power wire’s as short as possible. The RCA jacks only move about 2 to 3 watts (not amps) I was able to use 4 gauge for the 3 foot run.
2)Use a good “Tinned” wire to run to the speakers.
3)Location of the amp is paramount. They get really hot. When I was cranking it up last weekend I could feel the heat on the bottom of the seat it was installed under.

That all being said if any of you guys have an idea for a small 12V fan that might work I could sure use some suggestions.