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#383944 - 02/29/08 04:59 PM Winterizing question?  
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firecadet613 Offline
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My block has been drained. Can I just remove my thermostat and run the boat on the muffs hooked up to a big jug of RV/Marine antifreeze and then check to make sure it's all in the block?

Joe


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#383948 - 02/29/08 05:03 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: firecadet613]  
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deepv Offline
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Little late for winterizing, isn't it? Just leave the plugs out until spring (next month).


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#383950 - 02/29/08 05:05 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: deepv]  
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firecadet613 Offline
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It's been in my heated garage that I won't have for another week. I'd hate to risk anything with my boat...


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#383951 - 02/29/08 05:14 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: firecadet613]  
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deepv Offline
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Okay. Put it all back together and run it on the muffs with the hose connected to a large bucket of premixed antifreeze until it comes out the exhaust.


72% of fatal boat accidents are caused by
boaters that haven't taken a safe boating course.

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#383953 - 02/29/08 05:20 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: deepv]  
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firecadet613 Offline
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That's what I thought I needed to do. How hard is it to remove the thermostat...just pull the housing off the front of the engine and put it back on? Is there a gasket I need to buy?


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#383962 - 02/29/08 05:53 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: firecadet613]  
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T-Squared Offline
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No need to pull the t-stat. Just drain the block and manifolds, then do what Deep said. The block will fill up first. Once it's full and pink stuff is flowing good out of the exhaust dumps in the transom plate shut her down.


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#383963 - 02/29/08 05:57 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: deepv]  
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BillyB Offline
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 Originally Posted By: deepv
Okay. Put it all back together and run it on the muffs with the hose connected to a large bucket of premixed antifreeze until it comes out the exhaust.


That will not guarantee it's in the block. I do not recommend that you do it that way. What deepv and T-Squared & others are forgetting is that the exhaust manifolds get cooling water all the time and are expelling out the exhaust all the time, whether the thermostat is open, closed, or even present. So you can have the anitfreeze coming out the exhaust and still have none in the block at all.

If you are prepared to pull the thermostat housing (which is how I do it) then just pour the antifreeze in there. And yes there is a gasket for it's reinstallation. Or you could use the RTV stuff, but it "may" interfere with the readings on your temperature gauge.

You could just open all the drains, and I mean all of them, and if there is no water in the block or manifolds or fuel cooler or power steering cooler, then nothing will freeze.

Last edited by BillyB; 02/29/08 05:58 PM.

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#383964 - 02/29/08 06:00 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: BillyB]  
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deepv Offline
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Okay. Sorry. You can also run it until it gets to operating temp (170F) and then hook it up to the antifreeze hose. This coming from someone that only just drains the block.


72% of fatal boat accidents are caused by
boaters that haven't taken a safe boating course.

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#383965 - 02/29/08 06:00 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: firecadet613]  
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Frantically Relaxing Offline
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If you remove the thermostat, you DON'T need to run the engine at all, the antifreeze will get everwhere in the block it needs to. Have you drained your risers? If not, do that. Then make sure all the plugs are back in.

You should have a hose connected to the 'stat housing BELOW where the thermostat sits, and 2 hoses ABOVE the thermostat. The lower hose goes back to the water pump. When the block is full and the antifreeze reaches this point, add another pint or so to get some on the engine-side of the pump (chances are it will just leak out onto the ground, but at least there won't be pure water sitting there). THEN, drop the thermostat back in, the pour antifreeze in slowly, this will run into the riser hoses and fill the risers. When the risers are full, yer done!

(billy beat me to it!)

Last edited by Frantically Relaxing; 02/29/08 06:03 PM.
#383968 - 02/29/08 06:01 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: BillyB]  
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firecadet613 Offline
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I opened all 5 blue drains on the motor. Where would I find the seperate drains for the fuel cooler or power steering cooler?


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#383970 - 02/29/08 06:15 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: firecadet613]  
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Frantically Relaxing Offline
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Found some pics of when I did my Bayliner...

The hardest part of pulling the thermostat is removing the stupid plastic piece that holds it in place...




Once it's out (if you have that piece) pull the stat. Notice the hoses in this picture, the fat one on the left just goes to the engine water pump. The LOWER RIGHT smaller hose goes back to the outdrive water pump. The UPPER RIGHT smaller hose goes to my riser (only have 1 since it's a 4-banger. You'll have 2)


Keep pouring antifreeze until it comes up, and you notice it going into the outdrive pump hose. Add another pint or so...


THEN, drop the thermostat back in, and this will allow you to fill the risers.

Put the plastic retainer (if you have one) back in, then put the cap back on, AND LEAVE YOURSELF A NOTE to remind you that you need a new gasket! \:\)

#383971 - 02/29/08 06:16 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: firecadet613]  
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Billy, this spring try this little experiment. With an ice cold engine...t-stat closed, drain the block and manifolds. Then start up the engine. Wait until you have good water flow out of the exhaust then shut her down. Now open the block drains. You'll be a believer then.


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#383974 - 02/29/08 06:31 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: T-Squared]  
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firecadet613 Offline
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Sweet FR. It's a toss up between your's and T-Squared's meathod. Did you have a thread listing your winterizing procedure or could you quick run through it? If I just fill it up with A/F I should be good to go? I don't believe I drained my coolers...or would one of those 5 blue drains I removed be those? I take it my risers should be empty also?


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#384021 - 02/29/08 09:19 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: firecadet613]  
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Frantically Relaxing Offline
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I'm sure those 5 drains takes care of everything, but someone besides me should verify (or check your manual)---I only have 2 drains, one drains the block, the other drains my riser. But that's all there IS to drain on my boat!

And--what you just read above pretty much covers my winterizing procedure-- At least the antifreezing part. That's all there is to it. In the 7 years I owned my Marathon and Searay, I never even used antifreeze, I just drained everything. Never had a problem, and it gets COLD in these parts. I don't think that this late in the winter that you need to worry about changing out oils, just do that before the first fire in the spring. I really don't think you even need to antifreeze, but it's quick and easy insurance!

#384023 - 02/29/08 09:29 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: T-Squared]  
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No thanks T-Squared, I don't use antifreeze, I drain it all completely, air doesn't freeze. My way works and is less time consuming, less expensive, and less risky than yours.
If on my next boat it becomes hard to drain some accessories, I may try a version of your method.
I am slightly curious as to how much water can get into the block, in the time it takes the sea water pump to pump water "directly" to my exhaust manifolds and out the elbows. Considering that as soon as I start my engine on the muff, water starts shooting out the exhaust, I can't believe that the block (which holds almost 2 gallons) is filled instantaneously.
Maybe I will try your little experiment after all, since my block is already empty and the t-stat is intalled and shut.
I'll report back.


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#384024 - 02/29/08 09:31 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: firecadet613]  
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firecadet, if my wife wouldn't shoot me, I'd drive the three hours to your house and show you how to do it. See it once, and it's so easy you'll laugh everytime you read how much someone pays to have the "mechanic" do it!


I'm just happy to be here!



#384036 - 02/29/08 10:44 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: BillyB]  
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T-Squared Offline
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Oh I see, you're one of those drain it and leave it dry guys... \:D
It's all good Billy. After all, these things aren't space shuttles, they're iron block chevys fur cryin' out loud!
Do whatever works for you...


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#384336 - 03/01/08 06:31 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: BillyB]  
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firecadet613 Offline
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 Originally Posted By: Frantically Relaxing
I don't think that this late in the winter that you need to worry about changing out oils, just do that before the first fire in the spring. I really don't think you even need to antifreeze, but it's quick and easy insurance!


I changed the oil at the end of my season, when I "winterize" my boat for the heated garage. Oil, Gear Oil, Lube up everything, and drain the block.

 Originally Posted By: BillyB
firecadet, if my wife wouldn't shoot me, I'd drive the three hours to your house and show you how to do it. See it once, and it's so easy you'll laugh everytime you read how much someone pays to have the "mechanic" do it!


Whats funny about that Billy is I've already told the wife how close we are to Peoria and boating up the river to Chicago. Back when I lived in Lake Forest, I took my Sea Doo with some friends and put in the Illinois River @ Starved Rock and went down to Peoria for lunch. Not a bad ride. Should make for a fun trip up the river in my Sea Ray though. So just draining everything and I should be good...but if I want to be extra careful just pull my t-stat and pour antifreeze in? I plan on buying RV tire covers for the trailer tires for when it's parked in storage, (I've already got a cover for the spare, don't ask me why I did that when its garaged 95% of the time). Do I need to put anything over my prop/outdrive, or just put it straight ahead and down as far as it will go? I'll try and snap a picture of my boat w/ the mooring cover on it tomorrow and see what you guys think, but it goes down past the rubrail at least 6" and has cords that run underneath the boat to the other side holding it down.


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#384384 - 03/01/08 09:48 PM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: firecadet613]  
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Going all the way to Chicago from Peoria takes some doing and planning, but to the dam at Starved Rock is 70 miles and easily doable, yes indeed.

 Quote:
So just draining everything and I should be good...but if I want to be extra careful just pull my t-stat and pour antifreeze in?


Yep, that about somes it up. Actually, the thing that can be the most difficult to drain is the hose that goes to the power steering cooler, or the inlet hose to the engine. Since they can get kind of a low spot in them. So dumping some antifreeze in the hoses until it runs out isn't a bad idea, if you're gonna have the T-stat housing off anyway. And yeah, drive down as far as it will go and straight. Just be aware of the the distance to the ground should the ground settle or a tire go flat. Don't necessarily want the skeg to get buried in the ground!


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#384425 - 03/02/08 02:51 AM Re: Winterizing question? [Re: BillyB]  
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I have to agree with Billy on this. The first year I winterized my OMC, I tried one of the suck the AF up the drive kits and just to be sure, drained one of the block drains into a paper cup to see if AF was in there, and it looked pretty diluted to me. Even though I thought the stat was open, because the big hose from the thermo housing to the water pump felt hot, meaning that water/AF was flowing out of the thermo housing into the block. But, it is possible the stat was not all the way open, esp on a cool day, with an engine idling on the water hose, running on cold fifty degree or less water. So I drained everything and fill it up with AF the way it is described in the OMC manual. According to them, you didn't even have to remove the stat, just drain it all, leave the big hose connected at the water pump on the front of the engine, then fill the engine through the other end of that hose until the AF appeared at the thermo housing, then replace the hose. I would leave the block drains out until I saw some AF come out the block drains, then replace them and continue filling the engine. Same with manifolds and the raw water intake hose. I have done it this way every year with the -100 AF with no problems. I use AF because I think it helps with the corrosion in salt water.

Last edited by Lou C; 03/02/08 02:53 AM.

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