I am trying to determine why the DP-S outdrive on my 1997 Cobalt 220 clunks so loudly when I shift from neutral to forward or reverse. I have replaced (and adjusted numerous times) the shift and throttle cables, lowered the idle - but it still clunks much louder than it should. The previous owner did run over something hard enough to knock a chunk out of the prop - so I'm wondering if that could have caused some gear damage? Mechanically what could be wrong that causes the clunk? thanks for any input.

Mine does the same thing. Never having owned a V-P before, I sort of assumed it was normal. Everyone in the boat feels the 'clunk'.

I have not noticed this in the VP boats i've driven or riden in.

D

I think the clunk is normal for a 1997. I replaced my 1997 DP-S upper gear unit with a new 2004 unit and the clunk no longer exists. In fact, the shift is very close to an inboard in smoothness. Shift engagement is verified by the boat starting to move. Nothing wrong with the clunk though.

If I can't fix, I'll definately consider the newer unit route. Will the 2004 upper unit work with the lower unit, etc? thanks

I talked to a Volvo Penta tech today at an authorized service center (I was there getting that wonderful $30/gal 30 weight synthetic oil). He said it is "normal" for the DP's to clunk, has something to do with the cone clutch, especially in reverse. His feeling was that you should be more worried if it doesn't clunk.

I also asked him about my outdrive that, when left on the trailer in the almost-all-the-way-down position, will find itself with the skeg resting on the driveway the next day. "A lot of them do that", sometimes fixable under warranty, sometimes does the same thing... "cycle it up and down a few times. sometimes that corrects the issue".

I agree a little clunk is more normal than no clunk like mine. Yes, any DP-S upper unit will fit (thru 2006 I believe).

The outdrive should not lower/sink on its own at all. The machanics explanation of this is bull. This is either an internally leaking trim cylinder or trim pump. Neither is cheap, have it fixed while under warrany.

Other than the prop and shaft, what parts of the drive are typically damaged when you hit something hard enough to damage the prop?

Thanks again.
PS re the outdrive lowering/sinking on its own - I agree it, shouldn't do that.

Parts damaged besides the shaft are the gears and any bearings that they are riding on. Plus the vertical shaft can twist. Also, if the propshaft bends enough, it's seal can fail, letting water in or oil out, or both.

I had a VP AQ 290 SP for five years and it clunked the entire time, especially going into reverse. As posted earlier, my VP mechanic said it was the cone shaped clutch and that if it should ever quit clunky, bring it to him immediately. I have a B3 now that is smooth as silk, but I miss the VP.

I have an OMC Cobra with a dog clutch and it makes a light "thunk" going into gear which is normal for dog clutch drives. I thought one of the advantage of the cone clutch was no clunking into gear. Could the engine idle speed be too high?

I too thought it was supposed to shift quietly (or at least not as loud as mine). I tried lowering the idle last summer, but it still clunked. I also replaced the cables and put fresh volvo penta lube in the drive.

Did you replace the parts that were suggested?

My 02 VP SX clunks when going into reverse. I've had it looked at, but everything is good.

I have not replaced the parts BillyB suggested yet. I plan on bringing it home next week to begin working on it. Hopefully, I can determine what mechanically makes the clunk. I assume it's excess play from something - gears, clutch cone, bearing, or???...

OKNOW
The first thing you want to check is the lube, that unit should use the GL-5 Synthetic, if you or someone has put thin or regular lube in it it will shift harder, next check & make sure the props are tight ! The last thing is the shift shoe may need adjusted on the drive.Remeber the Stainless steel props will clunk a little louder than alum. props.We have had a few units in that ran the wrong lubes and had to repair the cone clutchs.

Thanks for the advice! I did replace the lube and made sure I used VP's GL-5 lube. However, I don't know what lube the previous owner used. I think I understand how to adjust the shift shoe. Can you give me some guidance on determining it the cone clutch is bad? Thank you again.

Been a while for me they made me get out of the shop several years ago, Get a copy of the Volvo service manual , I found out when I started turning a wrench in 68 that the manual will always be the best place to start a project when you want to do it right.
That being said, there are a couple of things to look at, pull he shift housing out & check it for wear in the detent area, also look at the shift shoe itself for wear, there are washers behind the shift linkage that are increased or deleted to set the adjustment. Our guys do this by setting them up & shifting by hand (turning the props )
Hope this helps.

For what it's worth ... When I bought my boat new in '98, I specifically chose the Volvo I/O (4.3 V6 w/SX drive) because it shifted easier and quieter than the Mercury combo (same engine). The Merc. shook the entire boat but, the Volvo has a slight "seat of the pants" thunk in fwd or reverse. It doesn't bother me because it lets me know it's fully in gear. No change in operation in almost 9 years ... still running great.

My '05 DP has had a solid clunk to it since delivery. It hasn't changed any and doesn't *seem* to hurt anything.

I dug up this thread because I have developed a delay in having the drive engage in forward. Now, I'm more concerned because as I mentioned before I have ZERO clunk. Instead I can't hear or feel a thing. The only thing that tells me its in gear is the feeling of moving foward. I thought smooth was a good thing but now I'm worried that my clutch or something is going??

What's the issue when you have no clunk?

Signed, Clunkless in Cincinnati?